On our last night in Ireland, we walked a few blocks to grab some dinner. As usual, we ended in a pub…a recurring theme. As we sat back with our pints awaiting our food, I asked everyone what their favorite thing about our trip to Ireland had been. Melissa really enjoyed learning more about the history of the country. Daniel and Benjamin both felt that our visit to the Cliffs of Moher was definitely a highlight, and I concurred. Benjamin and I also really enjoyed the sheep dog demonstration.
And then there’s my husband, Dave. His favorite thing was dinner.
Let me be more precise. His favorite part of the entire trip was the time we spent together as a family at our meals. He has missed his family tremendously while we’ve been on this overseas assignment. We all wished Christine and her family could have been with us. But, he SO loved spending time with the rest of his family.
Even though I joke that we spent a lot of time in pubs, it wasn’t like we were getting falling down drunk nightly. Going to the pub for a pint and dinner is really the norm, and besides…there’s no other place to eat! After a day of touring famous sites, buildings, and seeing some incredible landscape in Ireland, we regrouped at dinner. We talked about our day, what we had seen, what we had learned….but then strangely our conversations would take some strange twists and turns. This is not unusual to our dinnertime conversations, as our kids’ friends can probably attest. Dinner conversations in Elko could sometimes be heated, other times funny, and many times even educational. If nothing, they were animated!
Below are a few of the highlights of our topics:
Why do we have ears instead of just holes in the side of our heads? Really….why? Is it so that we look better? What does the structure of the outside of our ears have to do with hearing? Maybe there is a scientific explanation, or maybe they are just there to have a place to put our hair.
What does the umbilical cord actually transfer? One of the kids implied that whatever the mother eats is essentially transferred to the baby. The boys went with that one, and we had a fairly technical discussion about anatomy on this particular evening.
What possession does each of our kids want should we die? Dave and I are still slightly unnerved that we even discussed this! Ha ha! However, we really discovered that we either don’t own anything of value, or that the material things we do have just aren’t that important to our kids.
On the overseas flight from the U.S. to London, Melissa had a bad case of the flu. I can’t remember the exact number of times she puked, but it was in the 30-40 range. Melissa knows the exact number. I know, I know. Why on earth would anyone count their number of vomits? But, maybe it gave her the focus necessary to get through the flight! As a result, Melissa was the target of many, many barfing jokes and zingers. She was essentially named the Queen of Vomit, and labeled a professional barfer.
For those of you who are fans of the Fox show, “That 70s Show,” this reference will have some meaning. Last year Benjamin decided that Daniel reminds him of Eric Foreman, the main character of that show. There have been many times since that after Daniel has said or done something (usually at dinner), Benjamin just looks at me and says, “Foreman.” It’s gotten to the point where he and I will look at each other and say it at the same time! What makes it even funnier, is when Daniel starts protesting…because then he REALLY reminds us of Foreman!
When the kids arrived in London, they took the Tube from the airport to the Gloucester exit. Keep in mind that Melissa is as white as a ghost, probably a bit weak from no food or sleep, and they all have their luggage. They were trying to figure out how to get from the train to the exit, and boys being boys, didn’t ask. Melissa being Melissa…she asked….the BLIND guy! That provided much fodder for dinner time talks.
When we were on the London Millennium Bridge (the one that is blown up in the Harry Potter movie), we had a great photo opportunity but wanted all of us in the picture, so again….Melissa asked a young man to take our picture. As he raised the camera up to his eye, we all noticed (uncomfortably, I might add) that his right hand was deformed and he was having a difficult time clicking the button. But, he did….and we have a great picture. He was very nice to do it for us, but don’t think for a minute that we didn’t have a laugh over that one after she chose the blind man to lead them out of the subway! Benjamin and Daniel are convinced that at some point she’s going to need help, and she’ll head to the deaf guy, yelling at him…wondering why he’s not listening to her!
Being in two foreign countries, we tried to soak in as much of the local flavor as possible; at least in terms of pints of lagers and ales. From time to time we would find an American brand, but that was rare. I did have a couple of Budweisers and Coors Lites…as I can’t get those in Ghana. By the way, the drinking age in both England and Ireland is 18, so our “kids” were all perfectly legal, and quite responsible.
Magners Irish Cider
Peroni
Becks
Star Bock
Estrella
Guiness (of course)
Murphys
Heinekin
Budweiser
Coors Lite
Sagres (my personal favorite)
The Kernel
Honker’s Ale
Little Creatures
Sherlock Holmes Ale
Old Speckled Hen
Rolhaus
Vedetti
We discovered that there is a whole big world out there in terms of beer, and we greatly enjoyed exploring it!
At the end of the day, I think all five of us would have to agree that dinner time was one of the highlights of our trip, because no matter where you are in this big huge world…laughing is universal.
Monday, August 29, 2011
Friday, August 26, 2011
Intercultural Training
A couple of weeks ago Dave and I attended an Intercultural Training put on by Newmont’s Learning and Development Department (one of Dave’s areas). Although he’s extremely busy with his new job, he felt it was important that he take part in the training. It’s a good thing, because we were the only expats in attendance! In addition to us, there were six other Ghanaians and the instructor.
Newmont’s African Region brings together a variety of people from multiple cultures and countries. Even within Ghana there are many differences between regions and tribal customs. One of the goals of the training was to better understand differences in the workplace resulting from the various cultural values. The idea translates to living in Ghana, which is why I was invited.
Our pre-reading included a quiz, just to see how much everyone knew about Africa, in general. It’s an easy one…so, here goes.
1. The non-insect creature of Africa that takes the most lives per year is:
a. Lion
b. Snake
c. Elephant
d. Hippo
e. Baboon
2.Which part of Africa is geologically drifting away from the rest of the continent?
a. East
b. South
c. West
d. North
3. The largest religious group in Africa is:
a. Hindu
b. Zionist
c. Muslim
d. Zoroastrian
e. Christian
4. Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro, is in
a. Tansania
b. Kenya
c. Rwanda
d. Ethiopia
e. Chad
5. Africa is approximately what percentage of the world’s landmass?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 40%
e. 50%
6. The most common cause of human death in Africa today is:
a. HIV/AIDS
b. Malaria
c. Smallpox
d. Yellow Fever
e. Cholera
I’ll include the answers at the end of the blog…so don’t cheat!
We had a pretty lengthy conversation about the various differences between cultures, and that’s when Dave and I were both surprised to hear the many differences between Ghanaian tribes. In fact, I think even the Ghanaians were surprised!
Ghana men, in particular, have a unique handshake that entails a finger snap. Dave is quite good at it, and in fact, had to prove that he knew how to do it in the class. I think the men were quite impressed! I have seen some women do it with men, but more often it’s a “man” handshake. Ghanaians really like when expats try and learn their culture. Even learning the most simplest of words in the most common local tribal language (Twi) can take a person a long way!
Public displays of affection are not socially accepted in Ghana, although we were told that it’s not unusual to see two men holding hands…and they are not gay. Neither Dave nor I had seen this until right after the training, when we saw two men holding hands right outside of the Newmont office!
The use on one’s left hand in the Ghanaian culture is generally unacceptable as it is considered dirty. Due to lack of sanitation in older times, people “wiped” themselves with their left hand. Children who are naturally left handed basically have it beaten out of them. Guess you just don’t see lefties in Ghana. The people use their left hand to do dirtier work – pick up trash, clean a toilet, etc.
It was rather entertaining to watch the Ghanaians from different tribes discuss their varied traditions. Many of their traditions, from funerals to weddings, differed quite a bit.
The Ghanaians in the room also seemed confused about what many expats (or probably Americans, in particular) say. An example that I can remember is “swearing” vs “cussing.” Swearing, by Ghanaians standards, is completely different from cussing. “I swear on my mother’s grave.” They simply don’t understand why Americans consider profane words as swearing.
There is a fairly large group of Muslims in Accra, one of whom was in our training. She also happens to be Dave’s assistant, Ramatu. The Muslims have a cemetery right next to the Newmont office, and it’s a little creepy because the graves appear to be above ground (you know, humps of dirt like in the old westerns). They appear to be a peaceful society in our city, and are accepted for who they are. I have seen no instances of bad blood between the Muslims and Christians. In fact, the Muslim population complained recently that if the government acknowledges Christmas and Easter, Christians most important celebrations, then the country ought to also celebrate and recognize the Muslims most important period of Ramadan. It is the Islamic month of fasting, in which Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, smoking and sex with their partners during daylight hours. It is intended to teach Muslims patience, spirituality, humility and submissiveness to God. Ghana now officially celebrates the last day of Ramadan, and I think even Newmont is giving all workers the day off.
OK….now for the answers to the quiz.
1. The Hippo takes the most lives in Ghana. While there are many more snake bites, doctors are adequately prepared to treat such bites. Even the villages have adequate supplies necessary to treat the bites. By the way, Americans and Ghanaians pronounce the word Hippopotamus differently. Ghanaians say “hippo-puh-tay-mus.”
2. The East African Rift is an active continental rift zone in eastern Africa. The rift is a narrow zone in which the African Plate is in the process of splitting in two new tectonic plates. There was only one person in our training that got this right. He was a geologist – not fair!
3. Although there are many Muslims in Ghana, particularly in the Northern Region, there are slightly more Christians in the country.
4. This was a trick question for the locals; some said Tanzania while others said Kenya. In fact, the mountain straddles the border of the two countries. Tanzania actually gets to claim the mountain as most of it is located within her borders.
5. Africa is approximately 20% of the world’s landmass. It’s a very large continent!
6. Malaria is the most common cause of human death in Africa. It was a little disturbing to hear the facilitator talk about HIV/AIDS. It wasn’t too long ago that the diagnosis was a death sentence. From what she said, it seems like now it’s just another disease for which you can take drugs to control.
Just a sidebar about malaria. Every Ghanaian is likely to contract malaria, most multiple times. The malaria disease is a mosquito-borne infections disease that weakens ones immune system. Over one million people die each from malaria and as many as half a billion people are effected to some degree by the disease. Don’t worry about us, though. Dave and I are both on Malarone, a medication that is used to treat and prevent malaria. Also, anytime we travel we take a Malaria Travel Pack with us. It includes malaria advice for expatriates & travel, a letter for doctors (since U.S. docs don’t normally see malaria), and emergency standby treatment medication in case we can’t get a diagnosis confirmed and treated within 8 hours of the onset of symptoms. Ah…the joys of living in Africa!
Newmont’s African Region brings together a variety of people from multiple cultures and countries. Even within Ghana there are many differences between regions and tribal customs. One of the goals of the training was to better understand differences in the workplace resulting from the various cultural values. The idea translates to living in Ghana, which is why I was invited.
Our pre-reading included a quiz, just to see how much everyone knew about Africa, in general. It’s an easy one…so, here goes.
1. The non-insect creature of Africa that takes the most lives per year is:
a. Lion
b. Snake
c. Elephant
d. Hippo
e. Baboon
2.Which part of Africa is geologically drifting away from the rest of the continent?
a. East
b. South
c. West
d. North
3. The largest religious group in Africa is:
a. Hindu
b. Zionist
c. Muslim
d. Zoroastrian
e. Christian
4. Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro, is in
a. Tansania
b. Kenya
c. Rwanda
d. Ethiopia
e. Chad
5. Africa is approximately what percentage of the world’s landmass?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 30%
d. 40%
e. 50%
6. The most common cause of human death in Africa today is:
a. HIV/AIDS
b. Malaria
c. Smallpox
d. Yellow Fever
e. Cholera
I’ll include the answers at the end of the blog…so don’t cheat!
We had a pretty lengthy conversation about the various differences between cultures, and that’s when Dave and I were both surprised to hear the many differences between Ghanaian tribes. In fact, I think even the Ghanaians were surprised!
Ghana men, in particular, have a unique handshake that entails a finger snap. Dave is quite good at it, and in fact, had to prove that he knew how to do it in the class. I think the men were quite impressed! I have seen some women do it with men, but more often it’s a “man” handshake. Ghanaians really like when expats try and learn their culture. Even learning the most simplest of words in the most common local tribal language (Twi) can take a person a long way!
Public displays of affection are not socially accepted in Ghana, although we were told that it’s not unusual to see two men holding hands…and they are not gay. Neither Dave nor I had seen this until right after the training, when we saw two men holding hands right outside of the Newmont office!
The use on one’s left hand in the Ghanaian culture is generally unacceptable as it is considered dirty. Due to lack of sanitation in older times, people “wiped” themselves with their left hand. Children who are naturally left handed basically have it beaten out of them. Guess you just don’t see lefties in Ghana. The people use their left hand to do dirtier work – pick up trash, clean a toilet, etc.
It was rather entertaining to watch the Ghanaians from different tribes discuss their varied traditions. Many of their traditions, from funerals to weddings, differed quite a bit.
The Ghanaians in the room also seemed confused about what many expats (or probably Americans, in particular) say. An example that I can remember is “swearing” vs “cussing.” Swearing, by Ghanaians standards, is completely different from cussing. “I swear on my mother’s grave.” They simply don’t understand why Americans consider profane words as swearing.
There is a fairly large group of Muslims in Accra, one of whom was in our training. She also happens to be Dave’s assistant, Ramatu. The Muslims have a cemetery right next to the Newmont office, and it’s a little creepy because the graves appear to be above ground (you know, humps of dirt like in the old westerns). They appear to be a peaceful society in our city, and are accepted for who they are. I have seen no instances of bad blood between the Muslims and Christians. In fact, the Muslim population complained recently that if the government acknowledges Christmas and Easter, Christians most important celebrations, then the country ought to also celebrate and recognize the Muslims most important period of Ramadan. It is the Islamic month of fasting, in which Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, smoking and sex with their partners during daylight hours. It is intended to teach Muslims patience, spirituality, humility and submissiveness to God. Ghana now officially celebrates the last day of Ramadan, and I think even Newmont is giving all workers the day off.
OK….now for the answers to the quiz.
1. The Hippo takes the most lives in Ghana. While there are many more snake bites, doctors are adequately prepared to treat such bites. Even the villages have adequate supplies necessary to treat the bites. By the way, Americans and Ghanaians pronounce the word Hippopotamus differently. Ghanaians say “hippo-puh-tay-mus.”
2. The East African Rift is an active continental rift zone in eastern Africa. The rift is a narrow zone in which the African Plate is in the process of splitting in two new tectonic plates. There was only one person in our training that got this right. He was a geologist – not fair!
3. Although there are many Muslims in Ghana, particularly in the Northern Region, there are slightly more Christians in the country.
4. This was a trick question for the locals; some said Tanzania while others said Kenya. In fact, the mountain straddles the border of the two countries. Tanzania actually gets to claim the mountain as most of it is located within her borders.
5. Africa is approximately 20% of the world’s landmass. It’s a very large continent!
6. Malaria is the most common cause of human death in Africa. It was a little disturbing to hear the facilitator talk about HIV/AIDS. It wasn’t too long ago that the diagnosis was a death sentence. From what she said, it seems like now it’s just another disease for which you can take drugs to control.
Just a sidebar about malaria. Every Ghanaian is likely to contract malaria, most multiple times. The malaria disease is a mosquito-borne infections disease that weakens ones immune system. Over one million people die each from malaria and as many as half a billion people are effected to some degree by the disease. Don’t worry about us, though. Dave and I are both on Malarone, a medication that is used to treat and prevent malaria. Also, anytime we travel we take a Malaria Travel Pack with us. It includes malaria advice for expatriates & travel, a letter for doctors (since U.S. docs don’t normally see malaria), and emergency standby treatment medication in case we can’t get a diagnosis confirmed and treated within 8 hours of the onset of symptoms. Ah…the joys of living in Africa!
A Bit of Irish History
Ireland has always been a place I’ve wanted to visit, but I have no real basis for that wish, other than I’d heard it’s a beautiful place; and that it is! The countryside is green and lush. The towns are small and quaint. The lifestyle appears to be serene and tranquil. But, during our visit I also learned so much about the history of Ireland.
The official language of Ireland is Irish, although English is the primary language spoken. Only a very small percentage of the population is actually fluent in Irish, and there is cause for concern about its future. In the Irish Republic, most students are taught to speak, read, and write in Irish and English, but English is the language with which all lessons are taught. Politically, all road signs are required to be displayed in both Irish and English. It’s actually a very beautiful language when spoken.
In our travels, we passed through the town of Killorglin, home of Ireland’s oldest fair – The Puck Fair.
Wait….say the name out loud…Killorglin. Yep… beautiful sounding, don’t you think? I’ll bet you even feel like you have mastered the Irish accent!
OK, on with the story. The Puck Fair has been and continues to be the main social, economic, and cultural event of the community. As we drove by a bronzed statue of a goat with a crown on his head, our tour guide explained. Each year during the Puck Fair, a group of people go into the mountains to catch a wild goat. The goat is brought back to Killorglin, put into a small cage on a high stand in the middle of town. The Puck Fair is basically a big party. Pubs stay open until 3 a.m. (no, Virginia…Killorglin is not Nevada).
The goat is treated like the king he was meant to be. He is well fed, watered, and loved during the fair. After the celebration is over, he is returned to from whence he came….and left to live out his days as peacefully as a goat can or does. I was just sure the story was going to end with the goat on a rotisserie, didn’t you?
In the mid 1800s, Ireland experienced its most devastating emigration; a direct result of the Great Famine. Between 1845 and 1852, four million people either died or left the country because of mass starvation and disease. The Great Famine occurred because of the potato….or more appropriately, the lack thereof. The Irish, particularly the very poor, were dependent upon the potato (approximately 1/3 of the population), as it was their main source of food. Disease ravaged the potatoes, leaving millions with no food. How the blight (as it was commonly called) arrived in Ireland is still unknown, but once it was introduced it spread rapidly. At the time the whole of Ireland was governed by the British Government. At the beginning of the crisis, those working in Dublin sent word to the Queen for assistance – not in the way of money for individuals, but in the way of employment. The Irish were asking the Queen and Parliament to provide the country with money to implement public work projects, which would then employ the population. The British did not immediately help, as they felt the Irish were reacting prematurely.
Until the early 1800s Irish Catholics had little to no rights. They couldn’t own or lease land, vote, hold political office, live in an incorporated town or even live within five kilometers of the town. They couldn’t attend school or enter a profession. In fact, they couldn’t even openly practice their faith. 80% of the population was and probably still is today, Catholic. By the time of the Great Famine, reform had come to the country and most people had regained more freedom and liberties. However, many remained quite poor, and lingering laws prevented the vast majority from seeking alternate food services. The primary example is that of fishing. Because the poor did not have the right to the seas, they did not have the right to fish. While many of the starving families lived on the Atlantic Ocean or the Irish Sea, they could not even cast a rod.
Between the years 800 and 1014, the Vikings, most notably of Danish or Nordic descent, attacked many European countries, including Ireland. They raided many of the Irish castles and villages. In 1014, the High King of Ireland decided to fight back. There was a ferocious battle, won by the Irish. Ireland will be commemorating the 1000 year of that battle in just a few years.
Ireland is famously known for their fairies, leprechauns and mystic creatures. I didn’t see any of them, but I did see the Fairy Tree. We weren’t really sure how much of the story told to us by the tour guide was true, so I went out onto the Internet and googled the Fairy Tree. Here's a picture of the actual tree.
According to the web, in 1999 the upgrading of the National route from Limerick to Galway was delayed, rerouted and eventually opened nearly 10 years after it was supposed to have started. The Clare County Council as part of their contract had protected the fairy tree: “access is not permitted within a minimum 5m radius and a protective fence has been erected around it.”
OK, enough with the Internet. Let me tell you the story I heard! Yes, the Fairy Tree did hold up the building of the Ennis Bypass Road, which was being built to improve the traffic through Ennis. This particular tree, which was frankly a pretty scraggly, overgrown looking bush to me, was sitting right in the pathway of the project. So, the contractor sent a worker out in a bulldozer to mow it down. The bulldozer broke down before the tree could be removed. The contractor then sent out a worker in a tractor. Yep, it broke down too. Enough with machinery, he thought. The employer gave his worker a saw and an axe. This will do it, he thought. Nope! The guy fell over and had an accident (not sure what kind). At this point the workers balked at even going near the tree. They were convinced that the problems were a sign and that it was meant to stay.
The contractor calls the Clare County Council and explains that his employees refuse to remove the tree. Councilmembers, themselves Irish and presumably somewhat superstitious themselves, agreed to move the road 30’ away from the tree. If you’ve ever been involved in a building project, you know changes are NEVER easy. The Council was required to get permission from the National Roads Authority, and the architect had to revise his plans. This all took several months to get the approvals necessary. By the time the Council went back to the contractor, voila! The costs of the project had increased. He claimed that materials, labors, and all other associated costs had increased in the many months it had taken to gain approval. The builder presented a new price of 3 million euro more! The Council could not accept the change as it would have put them in an overbudget situation. So, they had to wait until the new fiscal year, with a new Council. It took 13 additional months to complete the project and an extra 3 million euro. Now, that’s superstition for you!
Ireland is rich with history, and there is so much more to it. These are just a few of the many stories I heard that I chose to share.
The official language of Ireland is Irish, although English is the primary language spoken. Only a very small percentage of the population is actually fluent in Irish, and there is cause for concern about its future. In the Irish Republic, most students are taught to speak, read, and write in Irish and English, but English is the language with which all lessons are taught. Politically, all road signs are required to be displayed in both Irish and English. It’s actually a very beautiful language when spoken.
In our travels, we passed through the town of Killorglin, home of Ireland’s oldest fair – The Puck Fair.
Wait….say the name out loud…Killorglin. Yep… beautiful sounding, don’t you think? I’ll bet you even feel like you have mastered the Irish accent!
OK, on with the story. The Puck Fair has been and continues to be the main social, economic, and cultural event of the community. As we drove by a bronzed statue of a goat with a crown on his head, our tour guide explained. Each year during the Puck Fair, a group of people go into the mountains to catch a wild goat. The goat is brought back to Killorglin, put into a small cage on a high stand in the middle of town. The Puck Fair is basically a big party. Pubs stay open until 3 a.m. (no, Virginia…Killorglin is not Nevada).
In the mid 1800s, Ireland experienced its most devastating emigration; a direct result of the Great Famine. Between 1845 and 1852, four million people either died or left the country because of mass starvation and disease. The Great Famine occurred because of the potato….or more appropriately, the lack thereof. The Irish, particularly the very poor, were dependent upon the potato (approximately 1/3 of the population), as it was their main source of food. Disease ravaged the potatoes, leaving millions with no food. How the blight (as it was commonly called) arrived in Ireland is still unknown, but once it was introduced it spread rapidly. At the time the whole of Ireland was governed by the British Government. At the beginning of the crisis, those working in Dublin sent word to the Queen for assistance – not in the way of money for individuals, but in the way of employment. The Irish were asking the Queen and Parliament to provide the country with money to implement public work projects, which would then employ the population. The British did not immediately help, as they felt the Irish were reacting prematurely.
Until the early 1800s Irish Catholics had little to no rights. They couldn’t own or lease land, vote, hold political office, live in an incorporated town or even live within five kilometers of the town. They couldn’t attend school or enter a profession. In fact, they couldn’t even openly practice their faith. 80% of the population was and probably still is today, Catholic. By the time of the Great Famine, reform had come to the country and most people had regained more freedom and liberties. However, many remained quite poor, and lingering laws prevented the vast majority from seeking alternate food services. The primary example is that of fishing. Because the poor did not have the right to the seas, they did not have the right to fish. While many of the starving families lived on the Atlantic Ocean or the Irish Sea, they could not even cast a rod.
Between the years 800 and 1014, the Vikings, most notably of Danish or Nordic descent, attacked many European countries, including Ireland. They raided many of the Irish castles and villages. In 1014, the High King of Ireland decided to fight back. There was a ferocious battle, won by the Irish. Ireland will be commemorating the 1000 year of that battle in just a few years.
Ireland is famously known for their fairies, leprechauns and mystic creatures. I didn’t see any of them, but I did see the Fairy Tree. We weren’t really sure how much of the story told to us by the tour guide was true, so I went out onto the Internet and googled the Fairy Tree. Here's a picture of the actual tree.
OK, enough with the Internet. Let me tell you the story I heard! Yes, the Fairy Tree did hold up the building of the Ennis Bypass Road, which was being built to improve the traffic through Ennis. This particular tree, which was frankly a pretty scraggly, overgrown looking bush to me, was sitting right in the pathway of the project. So, the contractor sent a worker out in a bulldozer to mow it down. The bulldozer broke down before the tree could be removed. The contractor then sent out a worker in a tractor. Yep, it broke down too. Enough with machinery, he thought. The employer gave his worker a saw and an axe. This will do it, he thought. Nope! The guy fell over and had an accident (not sure what kind). At this point the workers balked at even going near the tree. They were convinced that the problems were a sign and that it was meant to stay.
The contractor calls the Clare County Council and explains that his employees refuse to remove the tree. Councilmembers, themselves Irish and presumably somewhat superstitious themselves, agreed to move the road 30’ away from the tree. If you’ve ever been involved in a building project, you know changes are NEVER easy. The Council was required to get permission from the National Roads Authority, and the architect had to revise his plans. This all took several months to get the approvals necessary. By the time the Council went back to the contractor, voila! The costs of the project had increased. He claimed that materials, labors, and all other associated costs had increased in the many months it had taken to gain approval. The builder presented a new price of 3 million euro more! The Council could not accept the change as it would have put them in an overbudget situation. So, they had to wait until the new fiscal year, with a new Council. It took 13 additional months to complete the project and an extra 3 million euro. Now, that’s superstition for you!
Ireland is rich with history, and there is so much more to it. These are just a few of the many stories I heard that I chose to share.
Friday, August 19, 2011
Four Months Away
Dave and I have been living in Ghana for more than four months and are set to return to the U.S. again in September, which is good as I am in need of more meat!
We have each settled into somewhat of a routine; Dave working, and me discovering how to manage my day. In speaking for Dave (since I don’t think he reads this blog, much less contributes to it), his primary concern at work these days are the upcoming negotiations. There are two unions with which his team must negotiate and talks were originally scheduled to begin in April of 2011. Well, here it is August and the two sides have yet to meet. There seems to be no sense of urgency (except by Dave), which has him a bit worried. His lead negotiator is Ghanaian, and although Dave is a little frustrated, in listening to him at dinner, he is providing significant mentoring to the individual. This will ultimately lead to capacity building and further strengthen his department. Fortunately, Dave is patient and a natural teacher, which are two critical components of success in Ghana.
Me? After a too quiet July in terms of workload, I am again busy with my grant writing business. Part of me wants to go after more work, while the other half tells me to enjoy the freedom I have. I have worked full time virtually my entire adult life, and it has been an adjustment to have so much free time on my hands. I spend way too much time of Facebook, but it does make me feel connected. I am at the gym almost every single day, which is definitely good for the mental state! Every afternoon while I’m working I listen to Dave Pratt’s radio show (www.daveprattlive.com). For those of you outside of Elko, Dave Pratt graduated from Elko High School and is now a well-known and very popular radio personality in Arizona. After two years of being off the air (long CBS feud story), he reappeared on the Internet. His show has since been picked up by an FM station, but he can still be heard via the Internet. I love listening to him and his crew. I get to hear some good old American music, funny stories, and catch up on some of the happenings in the U.S.
So, what is going on in Ghana these days?
First, little did we know, but homosexuality is ILLEGAL in Ghana. And let me tell you, these people feel strongly about it! It is currently a hot topic in the region and, in fact, if an individual is aware of anyone who is a homosexual, he/she is obligated to report the person to the authorities. Admittedly, this is also a volatile topic in the U.S., but for different reasons. In America the argument is whether or not gays can marry. In Ghana….it’s whether or not they can be free! Ghana is an extremely religious country, and sometimes it feels like we live in colonial times over here.
Speaking of hot topics…we are inundated with world news in Accra. The recent London riots were, of course, widely covered and since we had just visited the city, we were much more aware and interested in what was happening.
The pursuit of freedom and democracy is evident in many of the most recent conflicts. The Sudan region (northeast of Ghana) has been big news what with southern Sudan seceding from the north and establishing Africa’s 54th country. Southern Sudan is different culturally and religiously (Christians) than those in the north (Arabs and Muslims). Had I not been living in Ghana, I wouldn’t have given this topic a second thought.
The Ivory Coast (or Cote d’Ivoire) is just to the west of Ghana and has seen its fair share of political unrest. In November of last year, an election was held and the then President lost but refused to give up his position. In April he was captured and taken into custody by the man who actually won the democratic election. There were demonstrations throughout the country, and many people left the country as they were scared. But, it all seems to have died down now.
The drought in Somalia is probably one of the most heart-wrenching problems in the news. Many Somalians are leaving their homes for refugee camps in Kenya, only to find the conditions just as bad. The U.N. estimates that 10 million people are in need of aid; 2 million children are malnourished. Can you imagine? Millions of people! One woman lost three of her children during a 35-day walk to reach the camp.
On a lighter note, I took a day trip with Michael, my driver, to the Eastern Region to visit the acclaimed “Bead Market.” Once we finally got out of the city, we drove into the most beautiful area I have yet to see in Ghana.
The Eastern Region is hilly (mountainous to the Ghanaians) with lush forests and pollution-free skies! The Bead Market is held in the city of Kofodirua every Thursday. Buyers and sellers come from all over the country. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but there were tables and tables of jewelry and loose beads. 
The beads come from all over (Ghana, Mali, Kenya, and Benin). They are made from a variety of sources like camel bones, terracotta, agate, and recycled glass. I found the men to be very knowledgeable, helpful, and anxious to sell their wares, while most of the women didn’t even speak to me, much less look at me.
As I was leaving the market, a group of children gathered around me as they saw my camera. They are so funny....they just LOVE having their picture taken!
We have a new restaurant in town called the Villa Monticello. I have been there twice now; once for a massage (lovely) and once for lunch with a friend. It has only been open for about four months. It is very modern, wonderfully decorated, clean, and fresh smelling. It might be my new favorite place to go!
Shortly before our trip to London we started hearing noises on our roof. Well, Dave tried to convince me the noise was ON the roof; I thought it was in the attic. I would only hear it in the afternoon/early evening as the sun was going down. When we returned from London, the sound became more frequent. Basically, it sounded like a four legged animal sprinting from one side of the house to another. One night – well it was actually about 3 or 4 a.m. – we both woke up to a scraping noise right above our heads. Dave actually gets very animated when telling the story - explaining how it sounded as if the animal put on his safety goggles, powered up the chain saw, and went to work. It was SO loud! Anyway, the next day I emailed the Newmont contact for home repairs and told her I thought there was a rat in my attic.
The next day the Pest Management guy shows up – his name is Opare (oh-par-ay). He’s the nicest guy and loves to talk. I explained my problem to him and he told me it was most likely a rodent and that this wasn’t the first time he’s been at my house. He told me that the rodents climb the trees in the afternoon to get to the attic and that they can get in the smallest little holes. After finding a maintenance guy to help open the attic (you would think that would be really easy, but it wasn’t), he basically stood on a ladder and hucked bait into the attic. He never actually went INTO the attic. He threw about 10 things of bait, closed the attic door, and told me that it should be dead within a week. I asked him if they wouldn’t start to stink as they were rotting in my attic and he advised me to just put around some “smelly things” to cover up the odor. I informed him that if I started to smell them, I would be calling him back to have them removed! We continued to hear Randy the Rat (that was Dave’s name for our little friend; my name for him was not near as nice) for the next two or three nights, but each night we could tell he was getting weaker. For the last several days, we have heard nothing. Either he’s dead in our attic, or (hopefully) climbed out to find water and is dead in the neighbor’s yard.
Last week we went to a bbq and I was telling one of the guys the story about Randy and he told me that it was likely not a rat, but rather a grasscutter. OK, this freaked me out a little bit more, because grasscutters are much larger than rats.
I took this picture on my way to the Bead Market. The young boy was selling it outside of the toll booth on the border of Greater Accra and the Eastern Region. Notice the guy in the background laughing at me! He must have been able to see the look of horror on my face!
Ghanaians actually EAT grasscutters. Charity (my housekeeper) said her family eats grasscutters, but they are hard to catch because they are very fast. She has never seen one around my house, but has seen a rat in one of the drainage areas. So, now I'm thinking it really WAS Randy the RAT!
With that being said, I heard that we are getting an actual, honest to goodness Kentucky Fried Chicken here! Hopefully, it’s really chicken…or maybe it’s just that grasscutters TASTE like chicken!!
We have each settled into somewhat of a routine; Dave working, and me discovering how to manage my day. In speaking for Dave (since I don’t think he reads this blog, much less contributes to it), his primary concern at work these days are the upcoming negotiations. There are two unions with which his team must negotiate and talks were originally scheduled to begin in April of 2011. Well, here it is August and the two sides have yet to meet. There seems to be no sense of urgency (except by Dave), which has him a bit worried. His lead negotiator is Ghanaian, and although Dave is a little frustrated, in listening to him at dinner, he is providing significant mentoring to the individual. This will ultimately lead to capacity building and further strengthen his department. Fortunately, Dave is patient and a natural teacher, which are two critical components of success in Ghana.
Me? After a too quiet July in terms of workload, I am again busy with my grant writing business. Part of me wants to go after more work, while the other half tells me to enjoy the freedom I have. I have worked full time virtually my entire adult life, and it has been an adjustment to have so much free time on my hands. I spend way too much time of Facebook, but it does make me feel connected. I am at the gym almost every single day, which is definitely good for the mental state! Every afternoon while I’m working I listen to Dave Pratt’s radio show (www.daveprattlive.com). For those of you outside of Elko, Dave Pratt graduated from Elko High School and is now a well-known and very popular radio personality in Arizona. After two years of being off the air (long CBS feud story), he reappeared on the Internet. His show has since been picked up by an FM station, but he can still be heard via the Internet. I love listening to him and his crew. I get to hear some good old American music, funny stories, and catch up on some of the happenings in the U.S.
So, what is going on in Ghana these days?
First, little did we know, but homosexuality is ILLEGAL in Ghana. And let me tell you, these people feel strongly about it! It is currently a hot topic in the region and, in fact, if an individual is aware of anyone who is a homosexual, he/she is obligated to report the person to the authorities. Admittedly, this is also a volatile topic in the U.S., but for different reasons. In America the argument is whether or not gays can marry. In Ghana….it’s whether or not they can be free! Ghana is an extremely religious country, and sometimes it feels like we live in colonial times over here.
Speaking of hot topics…we are inundated with world news in Accra. The recent London riots were, of course, widely covered and since we had just visited the city, we were much more aware and interested in what was happening.
The pursuit of freedom and democracy is evident in many of the most recent conflicts. The Sudan region (northeast of Ghana) has been big news what with southern Sudan seceding from the north and establishing Africa’s 54th country. Southern Sudan is different culturally and religiously (Christians) than those in the north (Arabs and Muslims). Had I not been living in Ghana, I wouldn’t have given this topic a second thought.
The Ivory Coast (or Cote d’Ivoire) is just to the west of Ghana and has seen its fair share of political unrest. In November of last year, an election was held and the then President lost but refused to give up his position. In April he was captured and taken into custody by the man who actually won the democratic election. There were demonstrations throughout the country, and many people left the country as they were scared. But, it all seems to have died down now.
The drought in Somalia is probably one of the most heart-wrenching problems in the news. Many Somalians are leaving their homes for refugee camps in Kenya, only to find the conditions just as bad. The U.N. estimates that 10 million people are in need of aid; 2 million children are malnourished. Can you imagine? Millions of people! One woman lost three of her children during a 35-day walk to reach the camp.
On a lighter note, I took a day trip with Michael, my driver, to the Eastern Region to visit the acclaimed “Bead Market.” Once we finally got out of the city, we drove into the most beautiful area I have yet to see in Ghana.
As I was leaving the market, a group of children gathered around me as they saw my camera. They are so funny....they just LOVE having their picture taken!
We have a new restaurant in town called the Villa Monticello. I have been there twice now; once for a massage (lovely) and once for lunch with a friend. It has only been open for about four months. It is very modern, wonderfully decorated, clean, and fresh smelling. It might be my new favorite place to go!
Shortly before our trip to London we started hearing noises on our roof. Well, Dave tried to convince me the noise was ON the roof; I thought it was in the attic. I would only hear it in the afternoon/early evening as the sun was going down. When we returned from London, the sound became more frequent. Basically, it sounded like a four legged animal sprinting from one side of the house to another. One night – well it was actually about 3 or 4 a.m. – we both woke up to a scraping noise right above our heads. Dave actually gets very animated when telling the story - explaining how it sounded as if the animal put on his safety goggles, powered up the chain saw, and went to work. It was SO loud! Anyway, the next day I emailed the Newmont contact for home repairs and told her I thought there was a rat in my attic.
The next day the Pest Management guy shows up – his name is Opare (oh-par-ay). He’s the nicest guy and loves to talk. I explained my problem to him and he told me it was most likely a rodent and that this wasn’t the first time he’s been at my house. He told me that the rodents climb the trees in the afternoon to get to the attic and that they can get in the smallest little holes. After finding a maintenance guy to help open the attic (you would think that would be really easy, but it wasn’t), he basically stood on a ladder and hucked bait into the attic. He never actually went INTO the attic. He threw about 10 things of bait, closed the attic door, and told me that it should be dead within a week. I asked him if they wouldn’t start to stink as they were rotting in my attic and he advised me to just put around some “smelly things” to cover up the odor. I informed him that if I started to smell them, I would be calling him back to have them removed! We continued to hear Randy the Rat (that was Dave’s name for our little friend; my name for him was not near as nice) for the next two or three nights, but each night we could tell he was getting weaker. For the last several days, we have heard nothing. Either he’s dead in our attic, or (hopefully) climbed out to find water and is dead in the neighbor’s yard.
Last week we went to a bbq and I was telling one of the guys the story about Randy and he told me that it was likely not a rat, but rather a grasscutter. OK, this freaked me out a little bit more, because grasscutters are much larger than rats.
Ghanaians actually EAT grasscutters. Charity (my housekeeper) said her family eats grasscutters, but they are hard to catch because they are very fast. She has never seen one around my house, but has seen a rat in one of the drainage areas. So, now I'm thinking it really WAS Randy the RAT!
With that being said, I heard that we are getting an actual, honest to goodness Kentucky Fried Chicken here! Hopefully, it’s really chicken…or maybe it’s just that grasscutters TASTE like chicken!!
A Ghanaian Tribal View of Justice
One of the more disturbing things about Ghana is the lack of respect for and standing of women in their society. That’s not to say it’s completely oppressive as the country is progressing, but it is most definitely decades behind that of the U.S. When I first came to Ghana, my friend and I attended a North America Women’s Association (NAWA) function one evening, where we listened to a female attorney speak about some of the atrocities that occur to women and young girls. She threw out several statistics that floored both of us, most of which resulted in high incidences of sexual abuse and assault; particularly for young girls.
Additionally, we have heard stories about witchcraft, voodoo, and fetish priests. Although the Ghanaians are a very religious society, they believe strongly in the spirits. There are formal law enforcement agencies – police and the military – but the local chiefs are highly revered. Evidently, so are fetish priests. Most villages have just one chief, but several fetish priests. According to one website I found, “a chief operates in the public, political sphere of life while a fetish priest operates in a more private, religious sphere.” Fetish priests are thought to be possessed by a god or spirit.
With all that being said, last night Dave brought home “The Daily Graphic,” the local newspaper. On the front page, in big bold letters I read, “Pastor Rapes 5 Sisters.” Below is that article. You have to read it to believe it…
“The Head Pastor of the African Faith Tabernacle Church, Rev. Paul Nkansah, has been arrested for allegedly raping five sisters at Akyem Achiase in the Eastern Region. Rev. Nkansah, who was alleged to have confessed to having affairs with the five sisters, said he committed the crime on the orders of some celestial powers.
The sexual escapade of the pastor came to light when a sister of the victims, Afia Baby, fell ill and was sent to the pastor for spiritual healing but died in the process. Not satisfied with circumstances leading to the death of Baby, her relatives consulted an oracle (a fetish priest), which revealed that Pastor Nkansah could not cure the girl because he had committed an abomination by allegedly raping five sisters and involving curses on a sixth person, who is a relative of the deceased.
On the basis of the revelation by the oracle, the mother of the victims confronted her daughters, who confessed that the pastor had raped them. The mother reported the case to the tribal authorites, who convened a meeting of chiefs to listen to the complaint.
At that meeting, which was attended by the Pastor and some of his church members, one of the victims narrated the circumstances under which Pastor Nkansah raped her. According to her, she visited her sister who was receiving treatment at his prayer camp. She said during the visit, the Pastor claimed that the spirit had revealed to him and that she was being tormented by evil spirits and therefore, needed deliverance.
Pastor Nkansah was said to have told the woman to bring a piece of cloth and also demanded GH¢ 1,200 (approximately $800) and advised her to add the cloth to the money, put them under her pillow and sleep on them for one week before submitting them to him.
The woman alleged that when she sent the items to the pastor, he told her to wait until midnight when the ritual could be performed to neutralize the evil forces tormenting her.
She said at midnight, the pastor poured water and oil into a bucket and sent her to a bush on a hill and instructed her to strip naked and bathe. She said on their return to the prayer camp, the Pastor invited her to his bedroom where he smeared her body with anointing oil before telling her that he had been instructed by the ‘Holy Spirit’ to have sex with her, which was necessary for her deliverance, a request which she resisted.
The victim said the Pastor dipped his hands into a glass and took some powder and sprinkled it on her face and body. She said she became unconscious and when she regained consciousness, she realized that she had been raped by Pastor Nkansah, who warned her not to reveal her ordeal to anyone, otherwise she would die prematurely.
The other four victims, including a 15-year-old junior high school student, also revealed how they were allegedly raped by the pastor using the same tricks.
After admitting his guilt of committing incent and casting a spell on the family of the victims, Pastor Nkansah was fined a ram and two bottles of schnapps.
The tribe then handed the pastor over to plain-clothes policemen who whisked him away to the Oda District Police Headquarters, where he was placed in custody to assist in investigations.”
Really? The chiefs fined him meat and alcohol? Thank God he was then taken to real law enforcement authorities. That’s not to say anything further is going to happen to him, but one can only hope that justice will prevail.
Additionally, we have heard stories about witchcraft, voodoo, and fetish priests. Although the Ghanaians are a very religious society, they believe strongly in the spirits. There are formal law enforcement agencies – police and the military – but the local chiefs are highly revered. Evidently, so are fetish priests. Most villages have just one chief, but several fetish priests. According to one website I found, “a chief operates in the public, political sphere of life while a fetish priest operates in a more private, religious sphere.” Fetish priests are thought to be possessed by a god or spirit.
With all that being said, last night Dave brought home “The Daily Graphic,” the local newspaper. On the front page, in big bold letters I read, “Pastor Rapes 5 Sisters.” Below is that article. You have to read it to believe it…
“The Head Pastor of the African Faith Tabernacle Church, Rev. Paul Nkansah, has been arrested for allegedly raping five sisters at Akyem Achiase in the Eastern Region. Rev. Nkansah, who was alleged to have confessed to having affairs with the five sisters, said he committed the crime on the orders of some celestial powers.
The sexual escapade of the pastor came to light when a sister of the victims, Afia Baby, fell ill and was sent to the pastor for spiritual healing but died in the process. Not satisfied with circumstances leading to the death of Baby, her relatives consulted an oracle (a fetish priest), which revealed that Pastor Nkansah could not cure the girl because he had committed an abomination by allegedly raping five sisters and involving curses on a sixth person, who is a relative of the deceased.
On the basis of the revelation by the oracle, the mother of the victims confronted her daughters, who confessed that the pastor had raped them. The mother reported the case to the tribal authorites, who convened a meeting of chiefs to listen to the complaint.
At that meeting, which was attended by the Pastor and some of his church members, one of the victims narrated the circumstances under which Pastor Nkansah raped her. According to her, she visited her sister who was receiving treatment at his prayer camp. She said during the visit, the Pastor claimed that the spirit had revealed to him and that she was being tormented by evil spirits and therefore, needed deliverance.
Pastor Nkansah was said to have told the woman to bring a piece of cloth and also demanded GH¢ 1,200 (approximately $800) and advised her to add the cloth to the money, put them under her pillow and sleep on them for one week before submitting them to him.
The woman alleged that when she sent the items to the pastor, he told her to wait until midnight when the ritual could be performed to neutralize the evil forces tormenting her.
She said at midnight, the pastor poured water and oil into a bucket and sent her to a bush on a hill and instructed her to strip naked and bathe. She said on their return to the prayer camp, the Pastor invited her to his bedroom where he smeared her body with anointing oil before telling her that he had been instructed by the ‘Holy Spirit’ to have sex with her, which was necessary for her deliverance, a request which she resisted.
The victim said the Pastor dipped his hands into a glass and took some powder and sprinkled it on her face and body. She said she became unconscious and when she regained consciousness, she realized that she had been raped by Pastor Nkansah, who warned her not to reveal her ordeal to anyone, otherwise she would die prematurely.
The other four victims, including a 15-year-old junior high school student, also revealed how they were allegedly raped by the pastor using the same tricks.
After admitting his guilt of committing incent and casting a spell on the family of the victims, Pastor Nkansah was fined a ram and two bottles of schnapps.
The tribe then handed the pastor over to plain-clothes policemen who whisked him away to the Oda District Police Headquarters, where he was placed in custody to assist in investigations.”
Really? The chiefs fined him meat and alcohol? Thank God he was then taken to real law enforcement authorities. That’s not to say anything further is going to happen to him, but one can only hope that justice will prevail.
The Cliffs of Moher
One of last stop in Ireland took us to the magnificent Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs are one of the most visited places in Ireland, and our group would agree that you just can’t go to Ireland and not see this most amazing and natural landscape. They are located in County Clare just outside of the small town, Burren (where we had lunch). 
They soar as high as 700 feet into the air out of the Atlantic Ocean and are on the western side of the country. The cliffs cover almost five miles of coastline.
The Cliffs of Moher provided the most beautiful natural geography I’ve ever seen. There are steps that will take you to the northern edge of the cliffs, and steeper ones that will take you to the southern edge. We did exactly the opposite of what our tour guide told us to do: “take the easier route and do not go beyond the signs.” We chose to take the more difficult climb (which was not hard at all), and I’m so glad. We also went beyond the “Do not trespass” sign,
where the views were even more majestic. Believe me when I say, we weren’t the only ones. People were taking pictures of the sign, and then crawling past it to see the most amazing scenery. We were very close to the edge of the cliffs, with just a walking path.
The natural beauty of the cliffs will take your breath away. Ireland, in general, was pretty cold and windy, but we all noticed that on top of the cliffs the winds were calm and it was warmer.
Not sure if that was some sort of anomaly or just a natural occurrence. As you turn away from the ocean and cliffs, cattle and sheep are grazing in the beautiful, green valley leading up to the cliffs.
As we looked over the side down into the ocean, we saw many birds flying. I googled them when I got home, and discovered that the cliffs are home to one of the major colonies of cliff nesting seabirds in Ireland and are a protected species.
Our stay at the cliffs was brief – only an hour visit, and we all agreed we could have spent more time there not only just marveling at the magnificence of the cliffs, but to visit the interpretive/visitor center. There just simply wasn’t enough time. I would have liked to make our way further down the southern edge and then over to the northern coastline, as the views are plentiful. Also, there are boat tours where you can view the cliffs from the ocean. That must be fabulous as well.
The visit to the Cliffs of Moher was a highlight of our trip to Ireland, and I strongly recommend everyone see them!
The Cliffs of Moher provided the most beautiful natural geography I’ve ever seen. There are steps that will take you to the northern edge of the cliffs, and steeper ones that will take you to the southern edge. We did exactly the opposite of what our tour guide told us to do: “take the easier route and do not go beyond the signs.” We chose to take the more difficult climb (which was not hard at all), and I’m so glad. We also went beyond the “Do not trespass” sign,
The natural beauty of the cliffs will take your breath away. Ireland, in general, was pretty cold and windy, but we all noticed that on top of the cliffs the winds were calm and it was warmer.
As we looked over the side down into the ocean, we saw many birds flying. I googled them when I got home, and discovered that the cliffs are home to one of the major colonies of cliff nesting seabirds in Ireland and are a protected species.
Our stay at the cliffs was brief – only an hour visit, and we all agreed we could have spent more time there not only just marveling at the magnificence of the cliffs, but to visit the interpretive/visitor center. There just simply wasn’t enough time. I would have liked to make our way further down the southern edge and then over to the northern coastline, as the views are plentiful. Also, there are boat tours where you can view the cliffs from the ocean. That must be fabulous as well.
The visit to the Cliffs of Moher was a highlight of our trip to Ireland, and I strongly recommend everyone see them!
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