Dave and I have experienced a number of challenges since moving to Ghana, but grooming has actually not been as difficult as we thought it might be. Unusual? Yes! Difficult? Not really.
I have been fortunate to have a built-in family hairdresser while living in Elko, namely my niece, Jessica. Each time I make it back to Elko, you can be sure I am in her salon. However, there have been times during these last 19 months that I just HAD to get my hair colored and/or cut. Last April, after travelling to the Seychelles with the unrealized expectation of getting my hair done, I started asking around. A few of the ladies with whom I golf recommended Antoinette.
The Star Unisex Salon is located about 15 minutes from my house (which is definitely a plus). The salon is located on the second floor of the building and overlooks the very busy Achimota Road. Antoinette is Ghanaian, and was trained in Nigeria. I suspect she is about my age, although I have found it very difficult to gauge the ages of the locals. They ALL look young to me! Antoinette has a teenaged daughter, but I believe she has been (and continues to be) raised by Antoinette’s mother.
When I walked into the salon, it looked to be like any other salon. However, once I sat down, I realized there were some significant differences. First, the lights are never on. I suspect it is both an attempt to keep electrical costs down as well as the temperature of the room. This is Ghana. It’s ALWAYS hot, but there is no air conditioning in the salon. Rather, all of the windows are wide open, allowing for a nice breeze through the salon. The lighted intersection at which the salon is located is also a Tro-Tro (taxi) station, and so the room is also quite noisy.
Antoinette and I discussed what I wanted done, and then she quickly…and very quietly…went to work. I tried to engage her by asking questions about herself and her family, but she didn’t seem too interested in conversing. As a result, I also sat there quietly, taking in the atmosphere around me. There was much yelling, honking, and general noise caused by the busy motorway just outside of the window. Otherwise, the salon was completely silent. There was no radio or TV, and there were no other customers. There were lots of pictures of various hairdos hanging on the walls. Ironically, most of them were of white women. I suspect that Antoinette’s primary clientele are expats.
In addition to myself and Antoinette, there were two young ladies in the salon, and I quickly realized they were there to assist their employer. One of them was assigned to attach the drape to me, and pick up anything Antoinette might drop while she was putting the color on my hair. She was then also responsible for setting the timer once Antoinette had completed the application of the color.
When the buzzer went off, the other young lady took me to another chair where she washed my hair. The first time I went, the water didn’t appear to be working directly out of the faucet, so somehow the gal was filling up a pitcher of water and would then pour it over my head. Not really sure where the water was coming from, as I had my back to her (obviously). The next time I went to the salon, the water in the sink was working.
Prior to my first visit, I looked through some pictures online via my iPad and took the device with me to show Antoinette. I think this helped, but honestly….she didn’t cut it the way Jessica does. On the other hand, the color was quite nice and it was good enough until the next time I got back to Elko. This last time I went, there was no electricity (not an unusual event in Accra), and she felt bad…but not bad enough to give me a discount! I have been to Antoinette three times now, and I have yet to be disappointed.
Now….Dave! Dave has tried several places. The first barber shop was recommended by a former Newmont expat, and it was located in the Golden Tulip, a popular hotel. The guy spent almost an hour cutting Dave’s hair. I swear he went over it and over it….15-20 times. I think he was nervous about cutting an Obruni’s hair! If memory serves me right, his haircut cost about 20 cedis ($12-$13 US dollars at the time). That was the last time we went to the Wooden Comb!
Next, we stopped in at the Exotic Trendz salon at the Accra mall. It’s small, and mostly caters to local women who are looking to have their hair styled (wigs, extensions, and straightening), rather than actual cutting. However, there is one barber…Ron, the bald guy. Seriously, his name is Ron and he’s bald (or at least he was when Dave first started going to him). Ron is quick – takes about 10 minutes. Dave says he’s not great, but he also only charges 10 cedis (about $6-$7 USD), so hey…..it gets him by.
A couple of months ago, we arrived at Exotic Trendz, but Ron wasn’t there. Some other guy was there in his place, so Dave sat down. This guy must have been brand new as he was SO nervous. It took him about 30 minutes to finish the job, and I can honestly say it was the worst haircut Dave has had in Ghana. I’m not sure if he was new to cutting hair, or if had just never cut a “white man’s” hair!
Last Sunday Dave was due for another haircut, so off to the mall we went. When we arrived there were two other people in front of us….or so we thought. Ron had not yet arrived (not unusual). Once he did – about 15 minutes after the salon opened - a guy who had arrived after us jumped up and proceeded to take a place at Ron’s station. Ron took a good 20 minutes to give this guy a haircut, which really consisted of buzzing his head and then giving the guy a scalp massage.
When Ron was done with that gentleman, another guy walked in and sat in the chair. The other two people and Dave who were waiting in line, protested. Ron looked confused. Dave said that we would go do some shopping and then we would return. On our way to the grocery story on the other end of the mall, we walked by a new salon (can’t remember the name of it). We stopped in as there was a barber shop towards the back. The hostess welcomed us and said the barber had gone to get some water and would be right back. After about 5 minutes, he returned (we think he was middle eastern), put Dave in the chair and in 10 minutes he was done! I don’t think he said two words to Dave. Dave claims this was the best haircut he received, and we paid out the nose for it….25 cedis ($13-$14 USD). Ha ha!
Getting my hair done, in particular, was definitely a source of anxiety for me, and I am thankful it hasn’t been too much of a problem. In fact, it has ended up being a good experience and a source of many laughs for Dave and I!
