Robben Island and Apartheid

After a lazy morning at Abbey Manor and a very interesting haircut Dave received at the V&A Waterfront (I’m not going to embarrass him in a blog, so I’ll let him explain the experience in person for those brave enough to ask), we took a ferry to Robben Island.

Robben Island is a small island located just off the coast of Cape Town, and is Dutch for “seal island,” although I never saw one seal. It has gained notoriety as it is the place at which Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 of the 27 years he served.

I was anticipating a thorough history of Apartheid in South Africa, but was very much disappointed. Our tour guide spent the first half of the visit either making a joke or acting like a prison guard. We had very little time to explore, and he virtually told us nothing about Apartheid. On our tour to two of the local vineyards later in the week, our tour guide provided us with much more history, which peaked my interest that much more.

I believe it is very important to begin this blog by declaring that prior to moving to Ghana, I was pretty much ignorant about Apartheid. I knew about Nelson Mandela, and I knew about Apartheid, but certainly didn’t know of any of the details. So, what I write is either what I have heard first hand, or what I have interpreted through reading about Apartheid.  It is in no way meant to be all encompassing, exact, or gospel. Also, the history covers years and years, and all points can’t possibly be covered in this short, personal blog. Our vineyard tour guide said it perfectly - this was his interpretation of Apartheid and the history and should we ask someone else, it’s likely we’d get a much different perspective. So, with that being said, this is MY interpretation.

I think, for me, what makes Apartheid worse than what blacks experienced in the U.S., is that at one point they did have rights, and then in 1949 the new leaders (National Party) decided that South Africa was no longer one nation, but rather one that was comprised of four distinct races: white, black, coloured (mix descent), and Indians (as in India). There was further distinction; i.e., English and Afrikaans speaking people. Actual laws were enacted outlining racial classifications and what a person could or could not do based on their race. It’s my understanding that the hierarchy was white, Indians, coloured, and then black. Everyone had to carry an identity card with them, and were often required to present it when questioned by authorities. In addition, the U.S. passed the Civil Rights Act in 1964, while Apartheid was not abolished until 1994….not so long ago.

Prior to Apartheid, many people of different races lived side by side. In 1950 the Group Areas Act of 1950 was enacted which put a halt to the diversity and regulated where a person could live according to his/her race. People were forced to resettle into designated “group areas,” based on their race. In particular, we learned about District Six, which was located in downtown Cape Town. The government began a forced removal of more than 60,000 during the 1970s, most of whom were coloured Muslims. Their homes were completely demolished - and everything that was in them. They were relocated to a sandy and unwelcome area about 25 kilometers away. The government claimed the area was downtrodden, full of crime, people lived in slum conditions, and ultimately dangerous. Others, however, believed the government wanted the land for development due to its close proximity to Table Mountain and the harbor.

Marriage between a man and woman of different races was illegal. Even sexual relations between two people of different races was considered immoral and a criminal offense. Whites and blacks had much different educational systems; the one for blacks was designed to prepare the children for a life of physical labor. Similar to the U.S., blacks were not afforded the same access to restaurants, bathrooms, and stores. Segregation appears to have been comparable to that which occurred in the U.S.

It should be noted than many countries opposed Apartheid, and in particular, those countries that formed the United Nations. Trade embargoes were sanctioned, and ultimately South Africa was on the verge of bankruptcy, which led to the fall of Apartheid. It is also important to note than white people only comprised something like 15-20% of the population.

The end of Apartheid took several years and began with a series of negotiations from 1990-1993, and was eventually ended in 1994.

Nelson Mandela was the most famous anti-Apartheid activists, but based on everything I’ve seen and read, his role was one of peace. He was a prominent lawyer who was repeatedly arrested for his political activities. In 1961 he was arrested and convicted of “sabotage and conspiracy to overthrow the government,” in other words…treason. He was sentenced to life in prison. He spent 18 years on Robben Island. The last several years he was confined to Pollsmoor Prison. He was released on February 11, 1990. He was elected as the President of South Africa in 1994 , which was the first year in which multi-racial elections occurred. Everyone I’ve talked to has nothing but great regard for this man - black, coloured, and whites alike. They all believe that if only everyone was like Mandela, the country would be all that it could be. When he was released from prison - and remember, it was after 27 years of being confined - he did not speak of revenge or paybacks, but rather about peace, forgiveness, and working together to move forward as one South Africa.

Back to Robben Island. The ferry ride took us about 30 minutes on very rough waters. When we arrived, we were quickly rushed to the busses. It appeared as if they were trying to treat us like prisoners, but it felt more rude than anything. Like I said before, our tour guide did not provide us much detail about Apartheid itself. We drove around the island a bit, which is now inhabited by people who work on the island - mainly those who maintain the grounds and prison.

Here we took a 5 minute stop (no more than 5 minutes, he said) as this is the closest point of the Robben in relation to Cape Town. That is Table Mountain beside us. Another windy day in Cape Town!

If a prisoner escaped, he would have to swim to the coast. If I remember correctly, only one prisoner ever escaped and evidently drowned trying the swim. We drove by the lime quarry, which is where some of the prisoners had to work….8 hours a day/5 days a week. Now, I’m not saying what they did wasn’t difficult, but to be honest, it’s nothing compared to the Jews and what they had to endure in concentration camps.

We arrived at the actual prison, where we were herded off the bus and led to the entrance. We were met by this man (didn’t get his name) who also served time (5 years) on Robben Island for his political activities.

He provided us with the history of the island and what they experienced on a day to day basis. One lady (she was black and did not speak English; I suspect she was South African and was speaking a tribal language). While the guide did not repeat the question, based on his answer I think she asked, “Was the prison always this clean?” Seriously, the prison was spotless. The floors were polished. There was no chipping paint. There was a fairly cool breeze wending its way through the hallways. He said, “Oh no….it was much, much cleaner.” He was actually embarrassed by the landscape outside because he said they took such pride in their temporary home while confined.

Robben Island imprisoned many men, most of whom were formally educated. These were doctors, lawyers, university professors, businessmen….men who were trying to force a change for their people. Mandela was one of the obvious leaders at the prison, and was always preaching about furthering one’s education, which many of the prisoners took to heart. What happened to these people was not right, but I’m convinced that it could have been much, much worse, in terms of how they were treated and the conditions in which they lived. They appeared to remain peaceful men with an agenda to make a difference.

So, what has happened to the country since the fall of Apartheid? Well, it depends on who you ask. Our vineyard tour guide is coloured. He maintains that while many things have improved for blacks and coloureds, there are still many, many problems.

Well, the best thing that has come from Apartheid is that as far as the law is concerned everyone is equal, just as it should be. As you drive across the country, you see what we consider “slums,” and they call “shanties” (as in shanty towns). Here is an example....not one I actually saw, but they basically all look alike.

Some of these areas go as far as the eye can see. I’ve seen several of them right here in Accra. The difference in South Africa is that there is an actual plan for removing these shanties and to provide those living there a better place. Little by little, the government goes in and razes an area of the shanties. They then build adequate infrastructure (water, electricity, etc.), and subsequently homes (probably about the size of a small apartment). The smaller homes go for about 40,000 rand (local currency), which is equivalent to about $4,500. Buyers easily qualify for low interest 15 or 30 year loans. Very affordable. There are also larger homes that are sold for around 90,000 rand…again, affordable.

There appear to be some downsides….and these were related both by the tour guide and one of our South African friends, who is white. South Africa is experiencing a tremendous amount of corruption, much more so than prior to Apartheid. Below is a recent press released in Johannesberg:

“Not one Eastern Cape municipality has obtained a clean audit, according to a report on Monday. The Dispatch Online reported provincial Auditor-General Singa Nggwala as stating that municipalities in the province had regressed further in their 2011-2012 audit outcomes since the 2010-2011 financial year. Nine municipalities had unqualified audits but with findings. There were 19 councils with a qualified opinion, 11 remained unchanged, and 5 improved from disclaimers and adverse opinions. Local government MEC Mlibo Qoboshiyane said he was disturbed by the regression and by the fact that once again none of the four municipalities had clean audits. He said he would work with all mayors to address the situation but where there was no alternative, he would use the powers bestowed on him by the constitution and other laws of the land.”

Basically what this means is that officials in all of the municipalities are likely stealing money from their own people. Are you kidding me? You worked SO hard to earn your right to be treated like an equal, and yet you are corrupt? Why? Our friend told us that there are so often irregularities in any financial transactions that have to do with the government.

Remember, 80% of the population in South Africa is black. Now that Apartheid has been abolished and equal rights prevail, the whites are in the minority. I recently heard from a South African friend that there has been a huge exodus from the country by white people because of the lack of opportunities, particularly for their children in terms of a promising career or in starting a business. In reality, there is reverse discrimination, which the U.S. has experienced.

Our tour guide also educated us about HIV/AIDS in South Africa. Did you know that an estimated 5.6 million South Africans are living with HIV and AIDS. This is the largest number of people in any country worldwide!  When we asked how that could be possible in a first world country, our guide gave us a few reasons.

First, an estimated 4 in every 5 people with HIV/AIDS are women between the ages of 20-24. He told us this story about local tribal beliefs (although that was debunked by our white South African friend). I suspect the truth lies somewhere in the middle. The locals (I’m talking the townships around the Cape Town area) believe that before a woman can marry, she must “prove” to her husband-to-be that she is fertile. As a result, many young girls (around the age of 13) have sex with the intention of getting pregnant. In this way, they have living proof that they are fertile. Obviously, they are engaging in random and unprotected sex. I asked him what happened to all of those children, and he said that they are then raised by the young woman’s mother and there was little to no connection to the child. It appears to be a vicious cycle.

Second, there were many people in high levels that didn’t believe that all immune deficiency related diseases could be attributed to one single virus - HIV. Even though international drug companies were offering free or cheap anti-retroviral drugs to the county, the Health Ministry was not on board. Not until November 2003 did the government approve a plan to provide anti-retroviral drugs. Even worse, in 2006 the then Health Minister, Manto Tshabalala-Msmang, “advocated a diet of garlic, olive oil and lemon to cure the disease.” WHAT??  The Health Minister was a woman and was serving under President Mbeki, and even though she was the subject of international criticism she retained her job until Mbeki left office.

So, now they have a new President - Jacob Zuma. Trust me….if you think you can’t stand one more day of Barrack Obama….read up on President Zuma! Alleged rape, racketeering, corruption, abuse of power, bribery, and fraud. The man never received any kind of formal schooling. He allegedly raped a 31 year old woman, the daughter of a deceased friend of his who was HIV positive. He admitted in 2006 that he did not use a condom when he had what he referred to as consensual sex (as opposed to rape), even though he knew she was HIV positive. He stated IN COURT that he took a shower afterwards to “cut the risk of contracting HIV.” Here is the scary thing….this “man” has been elected President of South Africa for THREE terms! In addition, Zuma practices polygamy. He has six wives and more than 20 children.

On a positive note, there has been a significant increase in HIV/AIDS education, and like anything, it will take time. Our tour guide said while the percentage of HIV/AIDS cases had not decreased significantly it had also not increased, so he was looking at the glass as half full!

Anyway, I could go on and on and on. South Africa is such an interesting country with its many nations of people. I know that I gave much time to HIV and corruption, but it’s because it’s what stuck out in my mind. Here the people had an opportunity to really improve their lives, and yet overall it doesn’t necessarily appear that it has. I’m sure we can point to a number of reasons, one of which is education, or lack of quality education. Education in the shanties continue to be an issue, where some classrooms have 80-100 students. Yes, you read that right…80-100 students. There is no way any effective education is occurring in that type of environment.

I think that just like with any downtrodden culture, it will take generations for real change to occur.

Above all, South Africans love their country, be them black, white, or coloured. I don’t know how many times we heard “One South Africa.” They have so much opportunity for continuing to grow and progress, but those in power must be stopped. Many times I asked myself, “I wonder what Nelson Mandela thinks about how his country is doing today? What does he really think about Jacob Zuma?” This is a man who was and continues to be all about working together, but above all….forgiveness; a powerful commitment.